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How the West Was Worn: Bustles and Buckskins on the Wild Frontier

Buffalo Bill Cody

“Buffalo Bill is a magnificent specimen of a man, and has a nasty grace of movement that is quite captivating. And a look that is unique and fitting to his work.”   The Chicago Review, 1872

William Frederick Cody was a frontiersman and noted marksman of the American West. Not only did he bring Wild West shows into prominence, he was a bit of a fashion plate, as well. His knee-length fringed shirts, ornamental leather coats, engraved and embroidered thigh-high boots, and broad-brimmed hat made him one of the most recognizable figures in the United States and Europe. His curly, shoulder-length hair, thin moustache, and small goatee accentuated the look. Costume historians credit Buffalo Bill with “bringing a bit of sophistication to the unruly plains.”

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Adah Menken in a scene from Mazzepa.

In August 24, 1863, San Francisco’s elite flocked to Maguire’s Opera House. Ladies wearing diamonds and furs rode up in handsome carriages: gentlemen in opera capes and silk hats were also in attendance. It was an opening night such as the city had never seen before. All 1,000 seats in the theatre were filled with curious spectators, anxious to see the celebrated melodramatic actress Adah Menken perform.

Adah was starring in the role that made her famous – that of Prince Ivan in Mazzepa. It was rumored that she preferred to play the part in the nude. Newspapers in the East reported that the audience found the scantily clad thespian’s act “shocking, scandalous, horrifying and even delightful.”

The storyline of the play was taken from a Byron poem, in which a Tartar prince is condemned to ride forever in the desert, stripped naked and lashed to a fiery, untamed steed. Adah insisted on playing the part as true to life as possible.
The audience waited with bated breath for Adah to walk out on stage, and when she did, a hush fell over the crowd. She was beautiful, with dark hair and large, dark eyes. Adorned in a flesh-colored body nylon and tight-fitting underwear, she left the audience speechless.

During the play’s climatic scene, supporting characters strapped the star to the back of a black stallion. The horse raced up a narrow runway between cardboard representatives of mountain crags. The audience responded with thunderous applause. Adah Menken and her revealing undergarments left the ticket holders in a state of shock – and scandalized the West.

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How the West Was Worn: Bustles and Buckskins on the Wild Frontier

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Wild Bill Hickok was an American frontier army scout, peace officer, stagecoach driver, and gambler.  He was a big man and his six foot frame was accentuated by the long, wool jackets he frequently wore.  The red sash he generally sported around his waist stood out over the dark pants and vest of his everyday wardrobe.  The sash held two pistols, always pointed butt-forward beneath his coat.  His giant brimmed hat was cocked on his head and his long wavy hair, parted in the middle, cascaded down his back.  Many dime novel readers tried in vain to duplicate his style, but only one could do the look justice.

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Oscar Wilde

“Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months.”  Oscar Wilde – 1883

When playwright Oscar Wilde made the long journey from London to California, he brought with him a flamboyant wardrobe. In 1882 he attracted large crowd of settlers in Leadville, Colorado, who were interesting in seeing Wilde’s velvet knickers suit and flowing bow tie. His outrageous costume was made complete with a high-crowned cowboy hat and knee-high cowboy boots. Although men found his fashion sense questionable, women admired the frilly, soft-collared shirts he wore, and they made patters of the garments so they could replicate the design for themselves.

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Annie Oakley

Among the most talent legendary trendsetter of the Old West was Annie Oakley.  Annie Oakley’s ability with a gun made her famous, but she also had a glowing reputation as a seamstress.  A  young  Annie was taught how to sew while living and working at an Ohio county home.  Her teacher, Mrs. Ira Eddington, recognized her talent for knitting and stitching, and encouraged the sharpshooter to make clothing for children and the elderly.  Throughout her life, Annie Oakley made most of the garment she wore.  She designed the costumes she wore in Buffalo Bill’s Wild West Show, and sewed the detailed embroidery that lined the sleeves, bodice, and hem of each outfit.

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How the West Was Worn:  Bustles and Buckskins on the Wild Frontier

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It happened in Dodge City, Kansas.  A stranger in town asked a resident where he could find Bat Masterson.  A lawyer who overheard the question broke in and said, “Look for one of the most perfectly made men you ever saw, a well-dressed, good-looking fellow and when you see such a man call him ‘Bat’ and you have hit the bull’s eye.”

Masterson was known for his trim, neat style, his derby hat, tailor-made pants and jackets, and linen shirts imported from France.  He was proof that being a tough lawman did not mean one had to dress like a cowhand.

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The Great Lillian Russell

It is generally understood that the costumes worn by Lillian Russell are novelties and models of the American dressmaker’s art… The styles have never been known until they came into grace on the perfect form of the “Divine Lillian.” The San Francisco Call, California – 1894

With her voluptuous figure, high plumed hats, and bejeweled gowns, Lillian Russell was the talk of the fashion world in the Gay Nineties. Onstage, she dared to wear purple tights and calf-high dresses that showed her naked ankles. Offstage, she was a meticulous dresser, adorned in diamonds and lace taffeta outfits. She was considered to be the ideal female of her generation, representing all that was glamorous.

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Bustles and Buckskins on the Wild Frontier.

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Amelia Bloomer modeling a pair of world famous bloomers.

Elizabeth “Baby Doe” Tabor was one of the Old West’s legendary trendsetters. The Colorado socialite had golden hair, blue eyes, porcelain skin, and a sense of style that rivaled that of any woman in Leadville. She arrived married to a struggling miner but dressed like she was the belle of the ball. She paraded down the main street of town wearing a sapphire-blue costume with dyed-to-match-shoes. Her stunning style caught the attention not only of neighbors and storekeepers but also of millionaire Horace Tabor. Horace and Elizabeth scandalized the community by falling in love, divorcing their spouses, and marrying one another. Horace showered his new bride with jewels and the finest outfits from Boston and Paris. She wore one-of-a-kind outfits to opening nights at the opera house he had built for her.

All eyes were on the young Mrs. Tabor as Horace escorted his young bride into the theatre. Her dresses were made of Damasse silk, complete with a flowing train made of brocaded satin. The material around the arms was fringed with amber beads. The look was topped off with an ermine opera cloak and muff. Pictures of the Tabors appeared in the most-read newspapers, and soon, women from San Francisco to New York copied the outfit. The only part of the costume admirers were unable to reproduce to their satisfaction was Mrs. Tabor’s $90,000 diamond necklace.

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How the West Was Worn: Bustles and Buckskins on the Wild Frontier

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Baby Doe Tabor

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Elizabeth “Baby Doe” Tabor was one of the Old West’s legendary trendsetters. The Colorado socialite had golden hair, blue eyes, porcelain skin, and a sense of style that rivaled that of any woman in Leadville. She arrived married to a struggling miner but dressed like she was the belle of the ball. She paraded down the main street of town wearing a sapphire-blue costume with dyed-to-match-shoes. Her stunning style caught the attention not only of neighbors and storekeepers but also of millionaire Horace Tabor. Horace and Elizabeth scandalized the community by falling in love, divorcing their spouses, and marrying one another. Horace showered his new bride with jewels and the finest outfits from Boston and Paris. She wore one-of-a-kind outfits to opening nights at the opera house he had built for her.

All eyes were on the young Mrs. Tabor as Horace escorted his young bride into the theatre. Her dresses were made of Damasse silk, complete with a flowing train made of brocaded satin. The material around the arms was fringed with amber beads. The look was topped off with an ermine opera cloak and muff. Pictures of the Tabors appeared in the most-read newspapers, and soon, women from San Francisco to New York copied the outfit. The only part of the costume admirers were unable to reproduce to their satisfaction was Mrs. Tabor’s $90,000 diamond necklace.

To learn more about the trendsetters of the Old West read

How the West Was Worn: Bustles and Buckskins on the Wild Frontier