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How the West Was Worn: Bustles and Buckskins on the Wild Frontier

The pilgrimage west was an arduous undertaking. Emigrants hurriedly loaded their wagon trains with as many personal belongings as they could, and if they were unable to make what little they had fit, it was left behind. Limited space forced many to wear all the clothing they owned on their backs. The basic outfit for a pioneer woman consisted of a gingham or calico dress, a sunbonnet, and a muslin apron. Men pioneers wore simple overalls, cotton work shirts, and caps or broad-brimmed hats.

Many who made the trek were poor, possessing only a single pair of boots or shoes, the soles of which would be worn off long before arriving at their final destination. Socks wore out as well, forcing settlers to wrap their feet in rags to protect them from the elements. When traveling through snow and ice, they wrapped their footwear in gunnysacks to keep their feet from freezing.

In preparation for the trip, women altered their dresses to make walking easier. Several inches were cut off the bottom of the skirt and lead shot was sewn into the hem to keep the billowing material from blowing in the wind. Men wore their trouser legs tucked into their boots for the same reason. Wearing them in this manner also kept out mud and reptiles. Pioneer women’s dresses were worn without a hoop, and the bodice was lined with canvas for strength and warmth.

Before heading west, pioneers consulted guidebooks for advice on suitable dress for the trip, and how to best protect the body against the direct rays of the sun and sudden changes in temperature. If they acquired the necessary items listed, travelers were assured to be prepared for any possible condition.

The following list of articles was deemed a sufficient outfit of on man up on a three month’s expedition:

2 blue or red flannel overshirts, open in front with buttons

2 woolen undershirts

2 pair of thick cotton drawers

4 pair woolen socks

2 pair cotton socks

4 silk handkerchiefs

3 towels

1 comb and brush

1 gutta percha poncho

2 pair of stout shoes

1 pound of Castile soap

3 pounds bar soap for washing clothes

1 bed-knife and small whet stone

To learn more about dressing for travel in the West read

How the West Was Worn: Bustles and Buckskins on the Wild Frontier

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How the West Was Worn: Bustles and Buckskins on the Wild Frontier

It happened in Dodge City, Kansas. A stranger in town asked a resident where he could find Bat Masterson. A lawyer who overheard the question broke in and said, “Look for one of the most perfectly made men you ever saw, a well-dressed, good-looking fellow and when you see such a man call him ‘Bat’ and you have hit the bull’s eye.

Masterson was known for his trim, neat style, his derby hat, tailor-made pants and jackets, and linen shirts imported from France. He was proof that being a tough lawman did not mean one had to dress like a cowhand.

To learn more about legendary trendsetters like Bat Masterson read

How the West Was Worn: Bustles and Buckskins on the Wild Frontier

Grateful to be among the nominees for the Downing Award

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How the West Was Worn: Bustles and Buckskins on the Wild Frontier

On August 24, 1863, San Francisco’s elite flocked to Maguire’s Opera House. Ladies wearing diamonds and fur coats rode up in handsome carriages: gentlemen in opera capes and silk hats were also in attendance. It was an opening night such as the city had never seen before. All 1,000 seats in the theatre were filled with curious spectators, anxious to see the celebrated melodramatic actress Adah Menken perform.

Adah was starring in the role that made her famous – that of Prince Ivan in Mazzepa. It was rumored that she preferred to play the part in the nude. Newspapers in the East reported that the audience found the scantily clad thespian’s act “shocking, scandalous, horrifying and even delightful.”

The storyline of the play was taken from a Byron poem, in which a Tartar prince is condemned to ride forever in the desert, stripped naked and lashed to a fiery, untamed steed. Adah insisted on playing the part as true to life as possible. The audience waited with bated breath for Adah to walk out on stage, and when she did, a hush fell over the crowd. She was beautiful, with dark hair and large, dark eyes. Adorned in a flesh-colored body nylon and tight-fitting underwear, she left the audience speechless.

During the play’s climatic scene, supporting characters strapped the star to the back of a black stallion. The horse raced up a narrow runway between cardboard representatives of mountain crags. The audience responded with thunderous applause. Adah Menken and her revealing undergarments left the ticket holders in a state of shock – and scandalized the West.

To learn more about legendary trendsetters like Adah Menken read

How the West Was Worn: Bustles and Buckskins on the Wild Frontier

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How the West Was Worn: Bustles and Buckskins on the Wild Frontier

Amelia Jenks Bloomer was a newspaper editor, public speaker, and proponent of women’s rights and other social reform. She did not design the then-daring outfit that carries her name – a short dress that reaches below the knees with frilled Turkish-style trousers gathered in ruffles at the ankles. She did promote the costume, wore it herself, and watched it become a symbol of the fledgling women’s movement

To learn more about Old West fashion trendsetters like Amelia Bloomer read

How the West Was Worn: Bustles and Buckskins on the Wild Frontier